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    Thread: Need suggestions for building a stand

    1. #1
      solefald is offline Registered User
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      Question Need suggestions for building a stand

      So I am getting ready to build a tank stand, which for now will only house an external sump plumbed into my 29G BioCube.
      In the future this stand will be used to house a 90 or so gallon tank. I am figuring total weight of the whole live setup (with rock, water, sump, equipment) will not exceed 850-900lbs.

      Anyway, I found an example of a stand I really like and posted a question on how to build it on a woodworking forum. Man, what a mistake. Heh.
      I got suggestions from "build this thing entirely out of 3/4 ply" to "you must use 2x6 or bigger".

      The stand that I would like to copy seems to be built entirely out of 1x3 and 3/4 plywood and uses rabbet joints. I have made a few SketchUp models, but everything seems either a 2x4 overload or does not seem like it would be stable enough.

      Would anyone be able to help me with designing something like this?
















      My own designs are a "regular" stand made out of 2x4's like outlined here: http://freshwatercichlids.com/do-it-...aquarium-stand
      But it got rejected by woodworking nerds as "too unstable, will crack and twist" even though thousands of people use this basic design with no ill effects.

      you can't see the supporting 2x4's between top and bottom behind the trim, but its there.


      After this design got rejected, i made another one, following a suggestion to use rabbet joints everywhere.

      Teal = 2x4. Not sure if that T-joint 2x4 is needed there... of if i should another one. Or if I need another 2x4 along the bottom connecting legs.
      Yellow = 2x2 (pine) for extra support
      Orange = 1x3 (pine. in reality 3/4 x 3 1/2)

      This also got rejected, and I was told to only use 2x6 and nothing else. Argh.







      Guys, many of you have more experience with fish tank stands than anyone else. Please tell me if they are crazy.
      Entire thing will be wrapped in some birch plywood, which will give some extra structural stability.

      I am figuring that if my second design is not stable enough, I will add another 2x4 along the bottom, have 2 2x4 cross braces across the top and bottom and change the rabbet joint on 2x4 cross braces to overlap horizontally,
      it will make this 2nd design simply bulletproof.


      Thanks!
      Last edited by solefald; 03-25-2012 at 08:31 PM.

    2. #2
      solefald is offline Registered User
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      I really think that something like this will be more than enough for what I need to achieve


    3. #3
      slicktoppomp is offline Registered User
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      One good tip for when you go to build, run your 2x4 or whatever your using vertical vs laying flat. Like the way i put my 2x6. Just insures that your not gonna have flex on the wood. Every stand i've ever built was pretty much the same design as the link on that cichlid forum. Never once had an issue with it not being strong enough.

    4. #4
      solefald is offline Registered User
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      That makes sense. Thank you! I will change the design again to have the 2x4 go vertical.... like I originally had it

      And I see you don't even have actual legs under 2x4's forming corners!

    5. #5
      slicktoppomp is offline Registered User
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      Ya i since i ran the bottom 2x4's flat vs standing up didn't need the extra 2x4 to wrap my legs around. I'm also gonna add some gussets to the inside corners so i have no side to side movement on the stand.

    6. #6
      solefald is offline Registered User
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      I am going with my original design that I copied from that Cichlids forum. It really is a bulletproof design and I don't believe there are going to be any issues with that. But for extra
      structural support I'm doing to use rabbet joints to form the frame.... and I still think this is an overkill.




    7. #7
      xL30NxCREATORX is offline Registered User
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      that is a great design that is what i always build mine with go for it.

    8. #8
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      I think that it looks like a pretty good start as long as you run 2 x 4's vertical. Dont forget about your overflow, a single center brace might be in the way if your tank has a center over flow. You also want to make sure you account for the width of your frame so you have room to tighten the bulkheads.
      Its all about MTS
      Larry

      150g, 60 gal sump, G3 Protein Skimmer, 2 Koralia Evo 1400's,2 Koralia Evo 750's, 20g ATO, 3 - 120w LarryM Led's configured 35 - 16000K, 28 - 14000K, 28 453nm blue and 28, 468nm blue.
      http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75141

      60g cube, 20g sump, Bubble Magus curve 5 skimmer with 2 mp10's and 120w led.
      http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/showth...00-60g-upgrade

    9. #9
      slicktoppomp is offline Registered User
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      Sweet man that's gonna turn out great!

    10. #10
      SunlitReef is offline Registered User
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      Slicktop is right, the 2x4's should be on edge. If the deck is thick enough, you won't need the center framing for such a small project. Also, you won't need the gussets, as long as you use the plywood on the outside. I like to glue everything, just make sure to use a nice flat surface for construction. Let me know if you have any questions or need some help.

    11. #11
      SunlitReef is offline Registered User
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      Just noticed the new design. Looks good, but the base doesn't need that much framing. Just enough to keep the legs in place. A 3/4 inch piece of ply is fine.

    12. #12
      solefald is offline Registered User
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      Thanks guys! I am getting 7 new a*sholes ripped on the woodworking forum with this latest design. Haha.

      They all seem to be 2x4 haters... and make me feel like im on RC asking if 6 tangs are OK in a 3 gallon pico! lol

    13. #13
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      Igor shoot me a pm with the woodworking site info, would like to take alook at what they are saying. If you have any questions let me know
      Its all about MTS
      Larry

      150g, 60 gal sump, G3 Protein Skimmer, 2 Koralia Evo 1400's,2 Koralia Evo 750's, 20g ATO, 3 - 120w LarryM Led's configured 35 - 16000K, 28 - 14000K, 28 453nm blue and 28, 468nm blue.
      http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75141

      60g cube, 20g sump, Bubble Magus curve 5 skimmer with 2 mp10's and 120w led.
      http://www.sdreefs.com/forums/showth...00-60g-upgrade

    14. #14
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      Brian_reefragr is offline Extreme Coral Hoarder
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      Quote Originally Posted by solefald View Post
      Thanks guys! I am getting 7 new a*sholes ripped on the woodworking forum with this latest design. Haha.

      They all seem to be 2x4 haters... and make me feel like im on RC asking if 6 tangs are OK in a 3 gallon pico! lol
      You're probably getting bs from a bunch of out of work construction workers that have nothing better to do than be online all day harshing on your shred! Tell em all to kick rocks, it's a fish tank stand not a structural support for a 3 story building! If you use 2 x 6 for your top framing and 3/4" or thicker ply, like Justin was saying, you won't need center bracing and will have more room to work on plumbing, etc. Your design is solid, even overdone, as you stated, just go for it. And good wood glue is a must, it will strengthen your stand a ton.
      dream tank in progress

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    15. #15
      davocean is offline Registered User
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      I like your last drawing, and my only add would be I would NOT rabbit the rim joist/header(what some are saying to use 2x6)
      If you are going open/no center support I would want that header to be solid, uncut/rabbit'd so there is as much meat as possible and no chance of a cut inviting a weak area on such a load bearer.
      I like the look of that cabinet in the photo.
      The outside corner trims could have been run full length to add support, but maybe you prefer the lines as it is.
      I personally would not use melamine as they did in that pic, not fond of that or any type of particle board for marine use.
      Post pics of your build, I like seeing this stuff.(also good call on verticle 2x's rather than flat)
      BTW, it's pretty common for woodworkers to bag on others work, many are set in their ways, really there are usually several options/solutions depending on your joinery skills, or tool/materials.
      I try to keep an open mind, and this is why I like to see others work/solutions.
      Last edited by davocean; 03-26-2012 at 05:02 PM.

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